The Gentleman's Guide to SPF - The Upsider
The world of gendered skincare is fraught with contradictions. Walk down the women’s cosmetics aisle in your local supermarket and you’re likely to see formulations for the face, the neck, the left elbow and each toe. Walk down the men’s aisle and there’s likely to be an array of blue packaging advertising variations of the same all-in-one moisturiser, body wash and motor oil. The general message for men is: slap some WD40 on it and you’ll be right, mate. But will you?
The best way to make sun protection a lifelong habit is to incorporate it into your daily cleansing and moisturising routine with a broad-spectrum moisturiser that contains SPF.
Without going to the extremes of women’s skincare options, there are a few essential differences to look out for when choosing a sun-protection moisturiser.
SPF, UVA, UVB, broad-spectrum – what does it mean?
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, and dermatologists across the globe recommend a minimum of SPF 30 be applied daily. There isn’t much of a difference once SPF gets above 30 (SPF 30 blocks 97 per cent of UVB rays; SPF 50 blocks 98 per cent; SPF 100 blocks 99 per cent), but it certainly can’t hurt to opt for the highest number you can find.
UVA rays make up 95 per cent of the UV radiation that reaches the earth’s surface, and they can get to you through clouds and glass, causing photodamage and skin ageing. UVB rays are the ones that will burn you, and both types can cause skin cancers. A product that protects against both UVA and UVB is considered broad-spectrum. Your sunscreen could be SPF 100, but without that extra level of UV protection, you may as well be rubbing yoghurt into your skin.
Active ingredients vs. non-active ingredients
Active ingredients are the ones that protect against UV rays. There are plenty of UVB-protectant active ingredients (ensulizole, homosalate, octocrylene to name but a few), but these mean nothing unless they’re combined with a UVA active ingredient such as avobenzone. Non-active ingredients are what make up everything else, from the consistency of the cream to any anti-ageing properties, to how hydrating it is and how it smells.
Is there such a thing as gender-neutral skincare?
Not only is gender-neutral skincare a thing, it’s also preferable to any product targeted towards men (you know, anything that wouldn’t look out of place in a hardware store). Research for this article uncovered one such non-broad-spectrum SPF 15 product that includes vitamin E, which naturally occurs in your skin but depletes with sun exposure. So basically, it’s offering to replace the vitamin E you lost while it wasn’t protecting you from the sun. Which is like pushing you in front of a bus and then calling you an ambulance.
Here are some SPF moisturisers to get you started on your journey:
Dermalogica Oil-Free Matte SPF 30
A broad-spectrum cream that meets the daily SPF recommendation, isn’t tested on animals and has no artificial fragrances or colours? Yes, please. This baby ($76.50, 50ml) includes a cocktail of active ingredients including avobenzone and UVB fighters homosalate, octisalate and oxybenzone. It also includes camellia sinensis, (green tea), which is a powerful antioxidant, has anti-ageing properties and is soothing, plus niacinamide (vitamin B3), a super-effective skin-restoring ingredient.
Ultraceuticals Ultra UV Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF 50+
Broad-spectrum, cruelty-free and Australian-made – you can’t go wrong with this one ($79, 100ml). Active ingredients butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (aka avobenzon) and octocrylene, along with phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole), protect against skin cancer andwrinkles, while the skin-restoring powerhouse niacinamide (vitamin B3) improves the appearance of uneven skin tone and fine lines. Panthenol (vitamin B) is thrown in for ultra-hydrating measure, and silica works to soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios 60 Melt-In Sunscreen Milk
This broad-spectrum cream ($54, 150ml) is lightweight and non-greasy, with avobenzone for UVA protection and antioxidants vitamin E and cassia alata leaf. This product is high on many ‘Best Sunscreen’ lists, but it’s recommended that you layer an antioxidant serum underneath, as the more antioxidants there are, the more effective the sunscreen is in protecting against UV rays.
This article featured on The Upsider, October 2018.